Nr 29 San Blas (Panama) Oktober 2010
English translation)
Pandura with Maureen and Uli and Boanerges sail to Nabargandup Pipigua, a small island 30
minutes by ulu (canoe) off the coast of San Blas. That night I am anchored in front of this magical
island in Kuna Yala (San Blas Islands. 600-700 inhabitants of which 190 children, each m2 is used.)
Kuna Yala was declared independent in 1950 as Autonomous Region by Panama in 1950.The
Indians have their own law, it is a kind of matriarchal society. The man moves in with the parents
of his wife. The wife earns the most of the foreign exchange through sale of molas (artfully
crafted paintings) and the sales of fruit and vegetables. A relationship with a non Kuna means
one has to leaveKuna Yala. The islands are organized into three districts. The Northernmost
where I am is the most open to outsiders. Near the southern Colombian border foreigners are
definitely not welcome. The local government is formed by the saila’s, the traditional village
elders. These still have an authority that is not constantly put to the test as reported in the
Netherlands. We experience that even the smallest questions are submitted to the saila. The
saila’s have decided that by October 1 the Kuna are not allowed to drink or sell alcohol any more
after another death by alcohol. And indeed one cannot get alcohol since October 1. However the
saila will not easily decide anything of which he is not sure what the opinion of the population
is. Then it will first be introduced into the Congreso, the public meeting which is held every
evening and where every woman and man can have a word. Th indians in this area seem to be
the least influenced by the Western culture in the whole of South America. It is more traditional
than the inaccessible Amazonas.
The island had bought an old polyester lancha ( the same motor boats as used in Cartagena) and
did paint it with water based acrylics. This paint did fall of immediately.
Maureen and Uli anchored some months ago in front of the island and within a short time an ulu
arrived to ask their opinion regarding the lancha. Maureen and Uli offered to help to improve the
boat. They expected that some filler and painting should be enough. After one day work all the
orange paint was sanded off the boat and they noticed serious structural damage and realized
that more knowledge was needed. I am now asked to come and assess the situation.
Immediately after arrival I have to visit to the boat in the church. The lancha was once cut in half
and extended by 1.5m. And that's not done very well. The cap rail (edge of the sides) has a wood
core with some polyester around it. There's a lot of space in-between and it is broken in many
places and the ribs are loose. The Kuna’s were afraid that even the engine would break off what
could possibly happen. I calculate the amount of polyester, glass and putty we need. The next
day we go to Panama City. To go to Panama City (Pacific side of Panama) means first to go by ulu
to Carti and then by off road car to the Panama City area. Since last year there is a good road to
Kuna Yala. At 15.00 hours we reach a polyester materials store and order everything
needed. Then we need permission from the saila’s to spend money. The island has hardly any
money, but we are allowed to buy. We lend and donate the money for a part. Later Uli gets the
remaining money back, for a substantial portion in 1 USD notes. Each family of the island
contributed. We have a great responsibility while we use the entire budget of the island. The
structural works are done quickly and without problems. The new stern is finished in 3 days. The
Kuna are sitting relaxed on benches outside the church where they see our struggle. They're
from 11.00 am till evening. At 11 o’clock their work is largely done and that is; fetching water
from the river with the ulu on the mainland, gathering Yuka and bananas, harvesting coconuts,
fishing and doing the laundry. Fish are not many anymore around the island.
We do not get much help from the Kuna. If one asks to hold a lamp they do. Once glass dust
starts to fly around by using the grinder they disappear. Clearly this is our project. Maureen feels
used and eventually gets a bad mood. I cannot blame the Kuna. Their life is orderly and
organized. The atmosphere is very relaxed and it seems there are no conflicts. But Feliciano,
who a few months worked in Panama City said: "It is no life there, one has to work 8 hours a day!
And that included a break? asks Maureen. Yes, one hour to have lunch. So 7 hours work. Yes. "
The Kuna can resist the need for more luxury at this moment. But some families have a solar
panel, battery and television, donated by relatives in Panama City. And that introduces a
different world on the island. Hence the weird rapper gestures the kids make in the picture.
Everyone notices that the work progresses, we are the leading experts of the island. We get a
sewing machine, an outboard engine and a hand drill to repair. And a request how treat an
infection. El doctor there will not be pleased. And I will also expert in the field of electricity. We
usually politely refuse, we have enough work.
One evening we are invited for a Chitsa party. A harvest party with a home brewn wine from
sugar cane. Beer, wine and spirits is banned since October 1 by the sailas and this is the only way
to drink alcohol. It was the first time ever foreigners áre admitted to this celebration and we are
guests of honor. We are seen as technical sailas and sít with the other sailas. Taking pictures is
not allowed. But when the saila’s ask for a picture, many others do too. Photographing Kunas is
not accepted in Kuna Yala. And certainly not from women. Women are indoors when we are
ashore. The alcohol made that this is different this time. The party starts at 15.00 and at 18.00
almost everyone is drunk. The women and men are separated in the Chitsa house. Man and
woman only meet when they drink a half calebas of chitsa. The next day I Print some photos and
pin them on the wall. The result is that when I walk through the village from various huts is called
"picture, picture". That’s why the blog contains so much pictures of people. (Young) men are the
mosty shy.
After the constructive work we have to paint. Fatigue and haste slowly creates tension between
us. Fortunately it will be solved by talking. On Nov. 4, I will leave for the Netherlands. A day after
the ticket is booked we are invited to attend the four-day celebration where the 24 saila’s sing
the history of our district. The oral culture is still alive. There has never been an outsider invited
to this party. I leave three days before my flight to the island of Nalunega where Nestor will
guard my boatNestor is a reliable Kuna who also knows some English and can handle my boat.
I am tranferred to Carti by Nicolas, who I've met through Nestor. He appears to be pastor of the
Pentacostal Church. When he hears that I worked on the lancha, he immediately knows the
whole story and tells me he is not happy that the boat was fixed in the church. But he is grateful
that I have helped his brothers and did not charge me anything for the transfer. And he offers
me to pick me up at the return. After my departure Maureen and Uli are painting the lancha and
I in the Netherlands I hear that this is not an easy task. Two days after arriving in Holland I am told
that a "small problem" arises with my boat.
About that next time.